Loop Stitch Crochet Tutorial

Loop stitch is exactly what it sounds like: a stitch that creates extra loops. This can be used to add texture to a project. There are several different versions of loop stitch, but this one seems simplest to me.

Note: Loops are formed on the back side of the work. So for the loops to be on the outside, you will have to work inside-out relative to most amigurumi.

The stitch is worked just like a sc, except we trap an extra loop of yarn on the back side of the work.

Here we have the start of a project in sc, and want to switch to loop stitch.

Insert your hook into the previous row as for a sc. Wrap the yarn up and around the back of something the size you want the resulting loop. This can be your finger, a pen, or in this case, the handle of another crochet hook. I like using a tool with a bit of grip so it doesn't slide out mid-stitch.

 Grab the yarn on the far side of the tool with your hook.

 Draw the loop on the hook through as for a sc.

 Yo and draw through as if you were completing a sc. Note the tool is still holding the extra loop in place.

You have completed one loop stitch! You can now safely remove the tool from the extra loop. I prefer to do several stitches in a row before repositioning my tool, because the previous loop(s) holds it in place to more easily wrap the next stitch.

 Here's what it looks like after two rounds of loop stitch. These are fairly small loops, only 1" in circumference. Note again that the loops are formed on the back side of the stitch, so this is inside-out relative to most amigurumi.

Tapestry Crochet Tutorial

Tapestry crochet is a great way to add colorwork to amigurumi without having to deal with extra ends.

Here we are a few stitches away from wanting to start a new color:

Bring the second strand in parallel to your working color, laying across the top of the stitches, and work a sc, inserting the hook under both loops and the extra strand.

 The inactive color is now emerging from the side of the completed sc.

Continue in this manner carrying the inactive color along the top of the previous round. After several stitches, you may notice the inactive color showing through in front or back. A gentle tug to straighten out the strand being carried along will help. Don't pull too hard or it will act like a drawstring and pull in your stitches. It might still show a little on the back, but not at all on the front.

Now we want to use the inactive color. Color changes take place on the last stitch of the current working color. (So read ahead in your pattern!) Insert the hook, yo, and pull up a loop as you normally would for a sc. Note the color we are switching to is still carried along the top of the last round.

Here's the actual color change: pick up the color you want to switch to, and use it for the second yo and pull though of the sc.

 You should now have a normal-looking sc in your first color, and the second color on the hook.

 You're now working with your second color. Carry the inactive color along the top of the stitches, as you did before.

That's it! You can carry along more than one inactive color, but the more strands, the taller your stitches will be to cover them, so it may start to affect the aspect ratio of the stitches.